May 2022: SEY and Kafferaven – ACIDITY TRIP

SEY Colombia Jhon Alexander Montoya – As we near the end of the diverse Colombia micro-lot season, I am excited to share this unforgettable gem. This is another Chiroso varietal from the Urrao region in Antioquia of northwest Colombia. This is possibly the 2nd or 3rd Chiroso in the subscription thus far. As a reminder, the Chiroso varietal is a newer crop recently brought to Colombia. It is technically an Ethiopian Heirloom species brought to Colombia, and has since been the winning coffee of multiple Cup of Excellence competitions. SEY has only recently started working with Montoya, but it is a relationship that they will pursue in following years to bring more of these advanced complexity profiles to their lineup. This and other Chiroso’s really should be priced higher than they currently are because of the cup profile. It doesn’t have the fame that a Gesha or a Yemeni has in the current specialty market, but if I was confronted with those three, I would for sure choose Chiroso. It is already up there in my all time favorites with Sidra and Pink Bourbon and I have only had two! In the cup I tasted bubblegum, lemon, and the essence of a light Cabernet. Brightness hits you up front with maple syrup throughout the cup. I brewed this one with a 16.2:1 water to coffee ratio and a grind setting one click coarser than my typical starting point. I let the bloom go for a full minute, then I poured three pulses spaced out by 40 seconds, finishing my last pour at 2:40. My final brew time was 3:30.

SEY Ethiopia Gore Dako – Gore Dako is a newer washing station located in the Agaro region of western Ethiopia. Gore Dako was recently opened by the absolute legendary Kata Muduga collective. Coffees overseen by Muduga are typically super clean and clarified, and not just lemon bombs either. The sweetness in these is much more clarified and balanced, likely because of the focus on crop shade and proper washing techniques. As this washing station is part of Kata Muduga group, it belongs to TechnoServe. TechnoServe is a project in Ethiopia dedicated to providing better resources and funding to Ethiopian Coffee Farmers, made to uplift the industry and residents of the region. TechnoServe has been super successful in these efforts, with direct effects shown in helping poverty in the region as well as higher quality in the cup. This one is super smooth and delicate. It has a sparkling champagne acidity throughout the cup along with mango that lingers long after the last sip. The sweetness on this cup was amazing and rivaled some of the sweetest Colombian coffees. Honeysuckle dominated the cup on the second brew. I brewed the Gore Dako with a 16.0:1 coffee to water ratio, and a grind setting 6 clicks coarser than a typical washed Colombia grind setting. After a quick 30 second bloom, I poured two slow pulses spaced our by 50 seconds. I kept my circles smaller and poured with focus so as to not agitate the brew too much. My final pour ended at 2:00 for a 2:50 brew time.

Kafferaven Costa Rica La Chumeca – Just wow on this one. La Chumeca, like the rest of Kafferaven’s selections is a direct relationship coffee. The farm and mill is run by Martin Urega in San Pedro, Terrazu. This is a super unique farm because of how hands-on the process is and how small the operation really is. It is classified as a micro-mill, and technically only produces natural processed coffee. Urega is a fourth generation farmer and uses unique processing techniques developed in his own family. No pulping is done by machine here. A mixture of Anaerobic and Aerobic fermentation is used in a process known by “Capulinero” developed on the farm. The whole cherries are thrown in to the sealed stainless steel tanks for the anaerobic fermentation. Once a specific pH is achieved, the cherries are removed and fermented again in open containers, then put back in to the anaerobic tanks to finish up once they reach a specific temperature. I tasted cherry, cranberry, honeycrisp apple, and herbs. This is a wild/funky/bright lil brew. I brewed this one with a 16.3:1 ratio, and ground it one click finer than my typical starting point. After a 50 second bloom, I poured four pulses spaced out by 30 seconds. My pours were more vigorous and wider to create a whirlpool in the bed to slow down the brew. My fourth pour finished at 3:00 for a 3:40 brew time.

Captured by Per at the La Chumeca mill.

Kafferaven Kenya Gatagua – This is another Kenyan coffee that comes from Per’s trip to Kenya in early 2020 that was extended due to border restrictions! Yay! We tried one of them last summer when four were released at the same time. Luckily, there was a more phased approach this year to the Kenya lots. The Gatagua factory has been in high demand for the last three years due to the high averaging score the coffees receive. The factory processes cherries from around 650 local smallholding farmers. The farmers grow crop that ranges from 1600 to 1800 MASL, and holds classes and training on growing techniques to ensure the producers grow higher quality to allow for a higher return financially. The exact varietals cannot be confirmed, but as typical with co-op Kenyan coffess it can be assumed a mix of SL28, SL34, Batian, and Ruiru 11. The cup hit me with SweeTarts, grapefruit, sherbet, and boysenberry. While acidic, it has a beautiful round mouthfeel. I ground this one 3 clicks coarser than my typical starting point and used a 15.8:1 water to coffee ratio. After a 45 second bloom, I poured two aggressive pulses spaced out by 50 seconds. This is a coffee that will benefit from increased contact time and possibly a higher water temperature. My final pour finished at 2:10 for a 3:00 brew time.

April 2022 – Manhattan and Little Wolf

Manhattan Colombia Deiro Garcia – This is an all around super fun coffee. Deiro Garcia’s farm is called Finca Lord Baltimore. The farm was bought by Deiro’s father Leo several years ago, and the previous owner had named the farm Lord Voldemort through a Harry Potter fascination; however Leo heard Baltimore instead. Leo passed away in 2019 and since then Deiro has been managing production at the farm. This first lot for us is an Ethiopian varietal called Sidra. I believe we have had at least one Sidra in the subscription before, but they are known to be super high quality and lend to great acidity and fruit notes. The Sidra cherries were processed in a washed Anaerobic method, so depulped fully and then sealed in tanks with a specific set of microorganisms to boost the fermentation in the tank. The seeds were grown at 1800 MASL at the Lord Baltimore farm. This comes from the Pitalito region of Huila. The cup is mostly delicate flavors; Chrysanthemum, Polish Cherry tea, and jasmine. The cup had an essence of washed Ethiopia, but very much had the mouthfeel and sweetness of a Huila grown coffee. I found lighter fruit notes than expected but more sweetness, which is the Huila terroir generally. I brewed this with a 16.5:1 water to coffee ratio ground one click coarser than my usual starting point. I poured three pulses spaced out by 35 seconds, finishing my last pour at 2:15 for a final brew time of 3:00.

Manhattan Colombia Camilo Torres – It does not mention this on the bag, however this is yet another coffee from fermentation lord Diego Bermudez. The coffees received from Diego Bermudez and roasted by Manhattan have been 100% insane. Camilo Torres comes from the name of the neighborhood that Diego’s family moved to, and where he became friends with his future coffee processing masters. For those new to the subscription, Diego has a degree in Biodiversity and microbiology. The farm was started by Diego to implement experiments based upon yeast strains, microorganisms, and of course, fermentation. As with most of the coffees we have tried, this is a Castillo varietal that has undergone the thermal shock Anaerobic process known so well at El Paraiso. The thermal shock part of this is washing the seeds with warmer water, then switching over to cold water before sealing the seeds in the tanks for fermentation. The resulting cup has excellent flavor qualities. Bright orange citrus, juicy fruits, honeydew, red grape, persimmon, and possibly dozens more that can be found in this dynamic coffee. I brewed this with a 16.5:1 ratio, and ground it two clicks coarser than my typical starting point for Colombian coffee. The density did not lead me to the coarser grind however, I am doing this to extend the brew time and extract more sweet flavor compounds. I then poured three sets of wide circle pulses at a faster rate to push the fines around in the bed. My pulses were spaced out by 40 seconds, finishing my last pour at 2:25. My final brew time was 3:20.

Manhattan Brazil Elias Goncalves – Like I have said about most of the Brazilian coffee in the subscription, this is a new producer for me! I am getting more and more excited about Brazil proving again that it can stand up on it’s own in the high-end Specialty market we are chasing. Elias holds a smaller farm in the region of Sao Sebastiano de Anto, with a super small amount compared to some of the giants in the Mata de Minas region. Elias’ family is new in the producing scene, and it is beautiful how he describes the work. It is a blessing for him and family to come together to pick cherries and process to the best of their abilities. The cup quality shows how much focus was spent on the coffee. The farm is super low elevation at 750 MASL, and they grow an experimental varietal called Catucai 785/15, a hybrid varietal between Catuai and Icatu. I really do not think I would have called this out as Brazil when I first tasted it. There was no presence of that classic nutty Brazil flavor I have run from my entire life. I tasted Bitter melon, kiwi, green apple, and then a hidden red fruit note in the background. I really can’t give a brewing recommendation here because this is an excellent option to experiment with and the reason that so many people received it this month. I want to do a long extraction with coarser grind but also I am using it to make espresso in my house right now so no middle ground. To start for pour overs, I recommend trying a 16.2:1 ratio with a grind size a couple clicks finer than your typical starting point. After a long 45 second bloom, I poured two slow pulses spaced out by 50 seconds. My second pour ended around 2:00 for a 2:45 drop time.

Little Wolf Colombia Las Perlitas – The return of Las Perlitas was met with excitement in my house. For those that were subscribers in January 2021 you might have received this stunner. This is once again a mix of local varietals, however not quite as exotic of a mix as last time. It is a classic Caturra/Castillo/Colombia mix. I actually remember getting a lot more florality from it last time which makes sense because of the Pink Bourbon and trace of Gesha in the mix. This one is much more on the sweet and heavy stone fruit side. This coffee comes from the “Mujeres de Giraldo” group. Mujeres meaning Women and Giraldo being the region in Antiquioa where these smallholding farmers, mostly women, have formed a community to educate, motivate, and support each other on growing and picking techniques. The group was founded by Yessica Parra, a young entrepreneur in the intensely competitive coffee world of Antiquioa. Yessica acknowledges the key role of women in coffee production, and that they are rarely acknowledged as the driving force behind production. Most of the coffee grown for this co-op is at 1800 MASL. On first sip I thought it was a delightful new version of what we had last year. In the cup, I tasted bright pink citrus, chamomile, and on the finish it almost has a lactic quality that comes from natural processes. Never would have expected this typically super clean coffee to have funk! I brewed Las Perlitas with a 16:1 ratio and a grind setting at my typical starting point for Colombian coffee. I poured two pulses after my 45 second bloom, spaced out by 45 seconds. My second pour ended at 2:00 for a 2:45 brew time.

Little Wolf Ecuador Lugmapata – Also from our January 2021 subscription comes one of my favorite coffees ever from Enrique Moreno of Lugmapata in Pallatange, Ecuador. Lugmapata coffees always blow me away with their complexity and brightness. It doesn’t hurt that they are typically Sidra or a different Ethiopian varietal transplanted to the exceptional. This lot specifically is a Bourbon Sidra and Typica blend and all trees at Lugmapata are grown between 1650 and 2000 MASL. At Lugmapata, all pickers are trained to only pick the ripest cherries, and then cherries are sorted to ensure only the ripest cherries are then processed. The coffees here are all double washed to ensure consistency in fermentation. The double washing yields a super clean cup. Lugmapata is once again tasting fantastic. I tasted Raspberry creamsicle, Lavender, and deeply complex flavors in the background. I brewed this with a 16.3 ratio and a grind setting one click coarser than my typical starting point. I poured three pulses spaced out by 40 seconds, finishing my third pour at 2:40 for a 3:30 drop time.

March 2022 – Vivid and The Barn

1. Vivid Colombia Blanca Marina – Our keynote of specialty coffee in 2022 is this Washed Castillo grown in the town of Pasto in Narino, Colombia. Blanca Marina is a newer producer for Vivid, but by no means new to the game. She has been producing coffee for decades, and now looks to her daughters, granddaughters, and great-granddaughters for help on the farm – called “El Aguacate”. While a simple Narino Castillo, this set of trees was put aside to let the cherries go past the red color which is normally considered to be ripe, which allowed them to turn purple. This was confirmed to not be considered “overripe”, however as it allows for the seed to take in that extra sugar from the cherry before being picked for processing. The fermentation was a standard 24 hours in tanks, then dried for two weeks on raised beds. This means the extra fruit flavor in this coffee comes directly from the cherry ripening which I find fascinating and the reason I say this is what specialty coffee is coming to. Experimentation, learning, growth. The flavors in the cup were vibrant. Cotton candy on the nose, and in the cup I tasted rhubarb, macadamia nut, and sauvignon blanc. The flavor and body in the finish was all Maple syrup. I brewed this with a 15.5:1 ratio, any higher and it gets cardboardy. I ground this one right at my standard Colombia grind setting and let the bloom go pretty long on this one to 55 seconds, but Vivid coffees tend to degas quickly so I bet this time will go down with age. I poured three pulses spaced out by 35 seconds for a 3:10 drop time.

2. Vivid Honduras Evin Gomez – This has to be the coffee I was most excited about this month. Evin Gomez is a super young producer in Santa Barbara and from the beginning he has been growing Parainema, the varietal from Santa Barbara that has been winning countless awards and a couple Cup of Excellence awards. This lot is fully Natural-processed 100% Parainema, grown at 1450 MASL. This one can be tricky to brew, and I myself will be letting it rest a couple more days as it needs some time to de-gas. The cup is pretty intense with flavor as well as body. I tasted a heavy dark chocolate with dried papaya, and those classic strawberry wafer cookies. I brewed this with a 16.7:1 water to coffee ratio, and ground it two clicks finer than my usual starting point. I poured four pulses spaced out by 30 seconds, ending my last pour at 2:40 for a 3:10 drop time.

Evin Gomez with Drying Beds in Santa Barbara

3. The Barn Ethiopia Gedeb Chelchele – Gedeb is a micro-region in the greater Yirgacheffe region of Ethiopia, and I am sure all of us have had a coffee grown in Gedeb before. Chelchele Estate is essentially a processing station for the local smallholders; however, coffee is grown at the estate. We can not be certain if this particular lot is grown at the estate or by local smallholders, as it is most likely all blended before processing the cherries. The Chelchele owner is named Metad, who is considered a great philanthropist in the area. Metad funds schools, coffee growing education, and scholarships for the locals. Metad is working toward coffee traceability as they realize that the modern coffee drinker cares about things like varietal and seed development. I nailed this brew on the first try, and was blown away by the flavors. The cup is all tropicals and berries. Strawberry to the face, mango, just so super sweet. On a second brew in a larger format it was slightly simpler but was like drinking Hibiscus tea. I brewed this with a 16.3:1 water to coffee ratio, and ground it six clicks coarser than my typical starting point. I poured two pulses spaced out by 45 seconds, for a drop time of 3 minutes flat.

4. The Barn Burundi Bumba Hill – Now time for the winner of the four coffees… Bumba Hill. This lot comes out of the Longmiles Burundi project, where washing stations are built to assist local farmers with access to water and electricity to produce some of the best coffee in the world. This is especially important for the Bumba Hill farmers. The coffee farm was incredibly difficult to reach, and left the farmers forced to walk three hours with the sacks of cherries to the nearest washing station. Thankfully, Longmiles project completed a new washing station last year called Ninga Hill that is much closer to Bumba and allows easier processing with less transportation required on foot from the Bumba Hill farmers. As is standard for coffees grown in the Kayanza region, this is a 100% Bourbon lot that is depulped, then fully washed. I have even heard that a team of people at the station lay out the cherries, then run and dance all over them to loosen the mucilage before washing. This cup is the Kenyaiest Burundi ever. I tasted blackberries, grapefruit, rock candy, and it has a lovely, silky body. It brews much more like a Washed Ethiopia though, because of the small, dense beans. I brewed this with a 16:1 water to coffee ratio, and poured two slow pulses spaced out by 40 seconds. My last pour finished at 2:20 for a 3:20 drop time.

February 2022 – Kaffa & Junto

  1. Junto Colombia Maca – On paper, this is likely the most exciting coffee on the menu this month. It is a close contender for the 2nd best coffee this month as well. This is Varietal Colombia seed, grown at a staggering 2231 MASL in the Cauca department. The producer for this one is named Tio Conejo, who owns his own farm with his family. The pickers are well-trained to only pick ripe cherries from the trees. For most coffees grown here the cherries are cleaned with Ozone gas and UV Lights, and for this lot they are pulped and then placed in the bioreactor with a specific strain of yeast. Then the tank is sealed to create the Anaerobic processing for these seeds. It is clear from this whole process that this farm is extremely advanced and educated on the science behind processing this organic product. Since the seeds are pulped before the Anaerobic fermentation, this is considered a washed Anaerobic. This one has the perfect balance of funk to brightness. This is an important brew to let cool before drinking, the freshly brewed cup doesn’t have as much vibrance. I tasted Kiwi, Rhubarb, and Blueberry with a Caprisun undertone and a slight tobacco quality. I brewed this with a 16.3:1 water to coffee ratio and ground it right at my typical starting grind setting for Colombian coffee. After a brief 30 second bloom, I poured three pulses spaced out by 35 seconds, finishing my last pour at 2:10 for a 3:00 total brew time.
  2. Junto Ethiopia Odola TebeArowacho – Odola is a newer washing station in Uraga, having started operations in 2016. While new, the quality in Uraga makes the processing purely a practice of not fucking up some of the most naturally delicious green coffee on the planet. Most of the coffee from this station is washed and is either grown in smallholder owned gardens or wild grown nearby. When I say smallholders, I mean most gardens are 1-5 acres in size. The processing is super standard for the region. Floated to remove defects, depulped, and then wet fermented for 12 hours before being dried on raised African Beds for 10 days. This is an exquisite example of a deliciously crisp washed Ethiopia. I tasted flavors that remind me of the absolute most killer cereal in history – Special K with strawberry yogurt clusters. It had some of that baked tart along with raspberries. The nose was all florals. Stick your nose in it. I brewed this with a 15.5:1 water to coffee ratio and a grind setting 8 clicks coarser than my usual starting point. That is two clicks coarser than I usually grind the dense beans that come from Ethiopia. I poured three tight pulses spaced out by 30 seconds, finishing my last pour at 2:00 for a 2:55 drop time.
  3. Kaffa Colombia Finca Danny – No the farmer’s name is not Danny, it is just the name of the farm. This is a coffee from one of my absolute favorite producers in the world, Jhon Wilson Poveda. Every coffee I have had from Poveda either from Kaffa or SEY has always been lights out beautiful. This is no different. The farm is in Acevedo, Huila. This is a small region we should all know by now that turns out the best product year after year and is considered quite new. This lot is a simple washed Caturra/Castillo/Colombia varietal blend grown at around 2000 MASL. The processing for this is fairly standard, albeit a longer dry fermentation period of 52 hours. What makes these coffees from Poveda so delicious is more related to the climate in Acevedo. The soil, cool mountain air, and shade from other trees is what feeds the quality of this coffee. This coffee turned out almost exactly like I had hoped. This is good news for me and my livelihood because this is the most common coffee I sent out this month. This has the classic Kaffa Colombia profile for sure. If the cup was a color it would be pink. It tastes of Rose, pink lemonade, and an overwhelming sweet pastry. I brewed this one a few different ways but ended up landing on a fairly standard Colombia brewing approach. I ground this one click coarser than my usual starting point, and brewed this with a 16:1 water to coffee ratio. After a 40 second bloom, I poured three pulses spaced out by 35 seconds for a total brew time of 3:15.
  4. Kaffa Kenya Jojo Estate – This is another beautiful Kenyan coffee from the Kenya roasting lords. I was told by the Kaffa squad that this could be the best Kenyan coffee they have had in years. This really means something coming from them, as Kenya is the first country that comes to my mind when I hear Kaffa. If you were wondering what the best coffee this month is after reading my Junto Maca description, this is the one. What is cool about Jojo Estate is the single-owner/producer which is still considered rare in Kenya. The estate is run by husband and wife power couple Joseph and Irene Njorge Njuguna. All of the trees are Ruiru-11, a disease resistant varietal. The Ruiru-11 is grafted to SL28 trunks, which I have personally never heard of any producer doing. I actually had to google what the grafting process of trees/horticulture even means. The farm is located at 1700-1800 MASL, and this lot is fully washed. The cherries are pulped, then the seeds are wet fermented for 16-24 hours and then washed off/dried. The drying process is done carefully; the seeds are flipped each day on the raised African Beds for anywhere between 10-18 days. It is super sweet with no negative traits. This is one of those coffees that I would put head to head with a really expensive rare varietal just because there is nothing you can knock it down for. I got notes of Lilac, Rose, Rhubarb, and cranberry when it was freshly brewed and hot. As it cooled it got brighter and turned to more of a lime and papaya profile. A+ on this one. I brewed this with a 15.8:1 water to coffee ratio and ground it five clicks coarser than my usual starting point. I poured two pulses after my bloom with wider circles poured fairly quickly. These were spaced out by 45 seconds. My final brew time was 2:50.
  5. Kaffa Peru Damian Espinoza – I asked about this one first (after I saw and instantly confirmed Finca Danny) and almost did not get it after I had settled on Jojo Estate. However, this is the first Natural-Processed Peruvian coffee I have ever seen. Not many people received this one but if you did, I know you won’t hate me if you don’t like it. As with many Peruvians, this is a certified Organic lot. Damian Espinoza is a farmer in the prized Cajamarca region known for growing awesome washed coffee. This lot is a fix of Yellow Caturra and Yellow Bourbon, and was dried in the cherry. Damian Espinoza has been growing coffee for many years, but turned to specialty coffee later on when a fellow grower won a Cup Of Excellence competition. The flavor profile on this bean was super interesting as I always have loved the subtle beauty of a well done Peru. As my first natural or even non-washed Peru, it basically exacerbated that sweetness and brought out more body and complexity. I got notes of toasted coconut, marmalade, and ripe strawberries. As the cup cooled it was all brown sugar cinnamon. My best brew of this one so far was sort of strange – I did a super long bloom and then four pulses. The grind was three clicks coarser than my typical starting point and I used a 16.3:1 water to coffee ratio. My bloom lasted a full minute. No more water or anything, just let the bloom fully ride out and then started my four pulses. I spaced them out by 30 seconds for a final brew time of 3:50.

January 2022 – CleverCoffee Roasters

We have a new friend this month from a small town called Odder near Aarhus in Denmark. I found this roaster through a subscription that I am a part of which I mainly use to find new roasters. This is the first time it has worked! What amazed me about them was their Brazil. I am much more open-minded now but it wasn’t until a couple years ago that I really started to realize Brazilian coffees potential. If a roaster has a truly delicious Brazil, that means their other coffees are probably roasted extremely well as a Brazil is a difficult coffee to roast in a high-level specialty setting. I did not provide the Brazil from them this month to everyone as it is still a Brazil and would not fit everyone’s preference profile but I hope those who did, find the joy in it that I did. I am really happy to be bringing Clever over and sharing it with everyone, the brewing recipes were slightly different for these ultra-light hotties so read the brewing instructions carefully.

Colombia La Pradera – This is not the first coffee we have had from the La Pradera farm in northeast Colombia. The profile from this farm generally fits within what I consider the high quality Colombia profile, aka WORLD fuckin CLASS. La Pradera is owned by the Deza family, started by Hector in 1979. The farm has been passed down through the family and Oscar is the new Don. In order to give the look of a high-level farm, Oscar sought after certifications. One being Organic, which doesn’t really mean anything as all of the coffee in the subscription is technically organic just without the certification. But also, certified bird friendly! Basically this means using shade trees planted between coffee trees. Most specialty farms do have shade trees, as this better controls the sun exposure and helps with longevity of the trees. Also for the birds. This is a honey-processed Tabi grown at 1700-1900 MASL. The Tabi varietal is highly resistant to leaf-rust and can be tricky to yield a high quality cup. The flavor profile in this cup is unusually more vibrant when it is freshly brewed and super hot. I typically wait to get true tasting notes from a cooler cup but I hereby provide the rare recommendation to guzzle this stuff right down. I tasted cranberry and rosemary right away, followed by rhubarb and pear. I brewed the La Pradera Tabi with a 15.5:1 water to coffee ratio and ground it three clicks finer than my typical starting point for. With the finer grind, I poured two long pulses starting at 40 seconds, and the second at 1:40. The total brew time was 2:53. The point here was to use a fine grind and quick pours to maximize the brightness here, as a coarser slow pour here would have provided more of the sweeter compounds that honestly weren’t all that great.

Ethiopia Bule Adado – I knew this was going to be bonkers when I read the name. Adado is absolutely one of the best processing stations in Ethiopia. The bag says pulped natural, which really just means honey processed. In Ethiopia and Brazil they use the term pulped natural instead of honey, and it is actually a much more accurate term. I don’t know how many times I have had to tell customers that no actual honey was used in the processing. Adado station is a pooled lot from various smallholders in the region, and demand that none of the growers use pesticides in the growing. This obviously would be hard to prove but is an important ethical distinction. There are three noted varietals here – Welisho, Dego, Kudhume. The elevation ranges from 1700-2200 MASL, a range so wide it isn’t even worth knowing. This was the most obviously vibrant and exotic coffee I received from Clever. Each sip had me gasping for air; I would have believed it was a Gesha if someone told me. When hot, I got a lot of florality and orange blossom. It had a sort of Earl Grey/Bergamot flavor as well which had me start thinking it was a little bit Burundi-esque. I also wrote in my notes “Banana!” so I guess we can throw that in the pot. I brewed this with a 15.3:1 ratio and ground it six clicks coarser than my usual starting point. I poured two fairly quick pulses but spaced them out by 40 seconds, finishing my pout at 1:40 for a 3:00 brew time. This one had a super long draw down time which I think is required for these super light coffees to extract all the flavors out of them fibers.

Brazil Fazenda Samambaia – Alas, the one I keep talking about. This is a natural Anaerobic Yellow Catuai grown at 1200 MASL. Do not get all hype boy on me about the Anaerobic part here though, a lot of coffees in Brazil are anaerboic in the specialty world but they do not have the same pop as the other Anaerobics we see here. Not shitting on this coffee at all though. This varietal is so special in Brazil, most of the highest level specialty coffee I have enjoyed in the last few years (like only 3-4 lol) are yellow catuai. This yields a clean cup with soft reminders of the country this bean was grown in, but not overwhelmingly earthy or nutty. The producer is a new one for me, his name is Henrique Dias Cambraia. When he took over the farm from his father who dual-careered as a Coffee Farmer and a Medical Doctor, he wanted to transition the cash-cow commodity farm to a more sustainable model, producing consistentf varietals that will be delicious year after year. Long-lasting trees, picking ripe cherries, maintaining a strong staff by treating them well and creating great working conditions. The reason for loving this Brazil so much is because it did not taste as much like a Brazil. I would put it on par with one of my beloved Kafferaven Nicaragua lots actually. The big fruit notes and the dry earth played together so well. I could taste a small amount of ferment but it actually kind of worked with the fruit. I tasted chocolate covered strawberries right away, followed by cantaloupe and raisin. I brewed this one kinda weird… so there is NO BLOOM. I did two identical pulses starting at 0 seconds. Don’t ask me what led me to this – the voices of my ancestors told me to do it. I poured heavy, wide circles for these. Each pour was about 30 seconds, and I took a 20 second break between pours. The final brew time should be at least 2:25. I used a 15.8:1 ratio with a grind size two settings finer than usual. You can of course try any method you want for this one but with this method I got the most clarity.

Costa Rica El Desafio – This small lot comes from Cafe Rivense in the Chirripo region, near Chirripo National Park and Forest. This is a Natural process Villa Sarchi grown at 1550 MASL. I love the Villa Sarchi so much as it always is deeply complex and when roasted correctly, the flavors are wild. Cafe Rivense is owned by the Rojas family, started by the parents over 30 years ago and now run by the kids. Similar to the Brazil above, the kids took over and wanted to change the business model to a specialty market. They used techniques like new experimental varietals, reusing coffee mucilage waste as a natural fertilizer. El Desafio means “The Challenge” which is named for the struggle the family went through for trying to produce alternative-processed coffee. They have been experimenting with honey and naturals for many years now with many failed experiments. After failing so many times, this is the first natural the family has released and as a direct partner of Clever, they were able to purchase this first experiment. This was the one that stood out the most on the cupping table. I drew like a double-outlined star around it in the notebook. It has vibrant tropical flavors and tart cranberry notes. It was tricky to figure out how to brew but I knew the potential locked in those beans and kept at it. Once cooled it gets slightly funky but it also brings out more cherry. I brewed this one with a 16:1 ratio, and a grind setting one step closer than my typical starting point. I poured four pulses spaced out by 35 seconds finishing at around 2:30 for a 3:00 drop time.

December 2021: Kafferaven Per Nordby & April Coffee Roasters

April Kenya Kianimui AA – The coffee I am most excited about this month goes first on the list here. We tried the Peaberry version of this lot a few months ago and it was one of my favorite Kenyan coffees of the year. When Patrik notified me this one was tasting better than that one, I knew it would not only be a great experiment to compare the two but it would also serve the purpose of the subscription to use the absolute best coffees I can find in the world. The Kianimui Washing station brings together local smallholders in the Ngariama and produces coffee with utmost focus. In this cup I tasted wild blackberry, sparkling rose, some sort of spiced thai iced tea flavor, christhanenum, and blood orange or maybe nectarine. This coffee is astounding and well worth the $15+ I paid for it knowing I was going to lose money on it :/ but happy holidays! I brewed this with a 15.5:1 coffee to water ratio and ground it several steps coarser than typical starting point; Seven steps coarser on first brew but will probably go five or six coarser next time to tighten things up. I poured two pulses spaced out 45 seconds and my final pour finished at 1:50 for a total brew time of 2:50.

April Guatemala El Socorro Maracaturra – One of the newer partner farms of April’s comes El Socorro, owned by Producer Diego De La Cerda. This is yet another farm in Guatemala that stayed quiet in 2020 and then blasted forward in 2021 with wild varietals and processes. This coffee is a washed Maracaturra grown at 1800 MASL, staggering heights for Guatemala. As a reminder, Maracaturra is a hybrid of Maragogype (Big in Brazil) and Caturra (Big literally everywhere). The result is a larger bean matching the Maragogype but with flavor complexity the Caturra can have under the right growing conditions and processing. This was the first coffee I could taste clearly after the Covids quit fucking with my nose and it was an excellent choice. This coffee was beautiful and had such intricate flavors. The first taste was grape and butterscotch, followed by that fire raspberry toaster strudel (double icing). There was a tart cherry or pomegranate flavor that rule the whole cup. The body is excellent, super light, tea-like, and clean. I brewed this with a 16:1 water to coffee ratio and a grind just slightly coarser than normal. I poured four pulses spaced out by 35 seconds with a slightly wider pour about 1.5″ in diameter. I finished my fourth pour at 2:20 for a final brew time of 3:10.

El Socorro Farm Cherries – Only the ripest cherries shown all the way on right are picked

Kafferaven Nicaragua La Picona – Not my first time using a coffee from La Picona roasted by Kafferaven and it won’t be my last! I used a lot from here just a few months into the coffee subscription as they changed my view on what Nicaragua coffee can be. I have gone over La Picona before but I will talk about them again as a reminder. The farm La Picona is located in Dipilto in an area classified as a nature reserve. The nature reserve has excellent shade coverage from trees, fertile soil, and cool air setting it apart from most Nicaragua coffee grown in hot climates. The farm is owned by Samuel Zavala, a long time friend and partner of Kafferaven. The coffee I have from here year after year always puts a smile on my face. The coffee is grown at 1200-1400 MASL and the main crop here is Maracaturra, which is the varietal of this lot. This lot is a Natural Process, where the ripe cherries are soaked before laid out directly under the sun until fully dry and then moved to the shade for fermentation to slow down. This is a classic dynamic Kafferaven Nicaragua. The La Picona farm is the original Nicaragua that changed my outlook on the Nicaragua profile. This starts out with a tart cherry and ginger note alongside the deep complex earth note. But wait, we hate earthy notes? For some reason these coffees just flip my preferences upside down. If you got this coffee, I am trusting you to have an open mind and think about these flavors without bias. This is a coffee I could win espresso competitions with and then take it to my cranky Uncle’s house and make him a cup he would love. I brewed this with a 16.7:1 ratio and ground it at my usual starting point. I poured four pulses spaced out by 30 seconds, finishing my last pour at 2:35 for a 3:10 drop time.

Kafferaven Ethiopia Bensa “Julkaffe” – The Julkaffe in the Nordic countries is a coffee chosen to put a smile on your face around the holidays, translating directly to “Christmas Coffee”. The funny part about it is I never have had a clue why any of the coffees were chosen for the selection. They are always really good and one of the top coffees most of the roasters have at the time but it still feels like a random thing. Anyway, this is from Bensa Segara in Sidamo – a smaller region with many smallholder farmers. The washing station this coffee comes from is called Logita, recently purchased by a newer producer named Heleanna Georgalis. Heleanna bought this washing station in 2017 with the purpose of helping the local farmers with their growing practice and putting an emphasis on focus and quality in the processing. Heleanna has her own coffee farm nearby that has been in the family for generations. This lot is not from there. This is a washed Heirloom blend of local cultivars grown at 2100 MASL. In the cup I tasted a super herbaceous and citrusy profile. It was more on the Yuzu side because of the herbal notes rather than straight classic Ethiopia lemon. I also got a juicy papaya note that was playful next to the citrus. On the front end I tasted a sweeter brown sugary note that began the herbaceous trend to bridge in to the citrus. It is a lovely coffee. I brewed this one with a 16.2:1 water to coffee ratio and ground it at my usual Ethiopia grind setting, six clicks coarser than Colombia. This bean was obviously super dense and hard coming out of the bag so I knew I should brew it quickly and emphasize the acidity. I poured two pulses spaces out by 45 seconds, finishing at 1:40 and a drop time of 2:40.

Kafferaven Nicaragua El Arbol – El Arbol is a farm I have had mixed opinions on in the past based on a few different lots. Apparently they are a lot newer in the world which explains why they make so many attempts to use progressive techniques such as 1000 hour Fermentations and Carbonic Macerations. The farm is located in Dipilto as is the La Picona grown at 1150-1300 MASL. This farm is actually partly owned by Per Nordby and a few others in the coffee industry and is used to experiment. This lot is a standard Pacas, picked at ripe harvest and then processed in the Carbonic Maceration method where whole cherries are sealed in tanks flushed with CO2. Review the “How I Brew” post on my page to review this method. My one description for this one is “tricky to brew”. I had to dump out my first brew right away as I ground it at my usual starting point; I should have known for a massive sea shell bean and a weird process that there was nothing “usual” about it. I ended up going two clicks finer and still did not go fine enough. The last brew I made was turning the corner of letting out the explosions of flavor locked in these beans. Unfortunately, I ran out before I was able to achieve the full profile, but I got a light note of fruit roll-up and peach. In the brews I made, the profile was overwhelmingly: just straight chocolate and hazelnut which made for a nice cup but not the crazy complex profile I know this coffee should have. I recommend grinding this one 3-4 clicks finer than your starting point and using a 15.5:1 water to coffee ratio. Pour two slow pulses, one at 35 seconds and the second at 80 seconds. If the bed is dropping out right away then try wider circles before going finer. The brew time should be around 2:45.

November 2021: Manhattan and Sey Honduras freshies

Manhattan El Salvador Carlos Mendez – Mendez owns a farm called Los Cotuzos located in Ahuachapan. This is a fairly large farm with a decent production size. And considering the size, Mendez is super involved with growing each tree and the processing. This lot was actually commissioned by Manhattan to grow a massive seashell of a bean and then perform the double fermentation method. The cherries are placed directly into standard fermentation tanks for 24 hours, and then removed and placed in anaerobic tanks for another 24 hours. Since this is a natural, the cherries have been intact for the whole 48 hours and once removed from anaerobic tanks, they are dried in the cool mountain air for 40 days. The cool weather here is important, as you will notice this hardly tastes like a natural. That is because the lower temp ferments it slowly, thus not allowing for funky fermentation flavors. This yields a delicate yet deeply complex fruity profile. I instantly tasted dark chocolate covered raspberries. The Pacamara profile here is filled with complexity and she a bit spicy. It could be more Mexican Hot Chocolate than dark chocolate. I have not had Rooibos tea in ages which is what Manhattan describes, so possibly Rooibos too. On the finish there is a long tart red fruit note that allows you to give a long rest between sips. The finish on this one is probably my favorite part. I brewed this with a 16:1 water to coffee ratio and ground it one click finer than my usual starting point. I poured three slow pulses spaced out by 40 seconds, finishing my third pour at 2:35 with a 3:00 drop time.

Manhattan Kenya Karatina – For me, a simple washed Nyeri is still one of the most excited coffees to receive, going on possibly 10 years now. This is a pure SL28 varietal brought to us by the Karatina factory on the south end of Mt. Kenya National Park. Most of the lots produced by Karatina factory are blends of small-holder farmers and could be up to 1,450 local farmers. The Ragati River that runs through Mt. Kenya National Park is the main water source here used for washing each bean free of mucilage. The farmer cooperative gives farmers back credit for school fees, some gardening supplies, and for emergencies. The goal here is to provide the local farmers with resources and education to help Kenya climb back up to the top producer in the world. This has been a big push by Kenyan government in recent years to fund farmers, as they know they have one of the best terroirs and as a baseline can grow some of the tastiest coffees. They just have to catch up with other nations with better access to water and education. This is one of the more delicate and soft Kenyan coffees I have had. I tasted an initial floral note which was nice, but then I was surprised to get hit with big Fruit Punch notes. Like Hawaiian Punch not Gatorade Fruit Punch flavor. Hella sugars and dynamic fruit notes. As it cooled I got more sweet citrus and jasmine notes like a calamansi or kumquat. I used a 15.5:1 ratio and ground it four clicks coarser than my usual starting point. I poured two long, drawn out pulses; each about 40 seconds each finishing my second pour at 1:15 with a 2:30 drop time. Any longer on the brew time gives this coffee an undesirable papery taste.

Sey Honduras Olvin Moreno – What else do we need to say, Olvin is a Moreno. The whole family has coffee production in their blood. Olvin is one of the six Moreno brothers who inherited a small lot from the godfather of Santa Barbara, Daniel Moreno. This lot is 100% Pacas grown at Olvin’s small farm at 1700 MASL in Santa Barbara. This is processed in a fairly standard method for the region; floated for defect detection, dry fermented for 24 hours, and then dried on raised beds for 16 days. This is a nearly perfect tasting Honduras. The caramelized sugars and the berry notes play so well together to create a well rounded, sweet cup with deep complexity. I tasted grape, dried fruit, and brown sugar. I brewed this with a 16.2:1 ratio, and ground it four clicks coarser than my typical starting point. Both this bean and the Bitalina Lopez are super dense and grown at high elevations forcing me to go much coarser. I poured four pulses spaced out by 35 seconds finishing my last pour at 2:30 for a 3:20 brew time.

Sey Honduras Bitalina Lopez – This is also a stellar return from SEY. The farm Finca Bitalina by Bitalina Lopez is small but fantastic. The focus on each tree is intense and careful. I do not recall the last lot I had from Bitalina but it was either Bourbon or Pacas, this one being a blend of each. Bitalina has a super small growing garden of .3 Hectares in Santa Barbara located at 1750 MASL. Most of the cherries here are processed the same for consistency; floated for ripeness, dry fermented for 22 hours, and then manually washed SIX times before drying on raised beds for 2 weeks. The coffees here are always super clean, sweet, and berry forward with amazing complexity. This is a full bodied cup with cacao, herbs, kiwi, and possibly dragon fruit. There is a ton of complexity to be unlocked in here, but I only had a 16 gram sample of this so this was my only shot. I brewed this the exact same as Olvin Moreno as they are from the same region and nearly the same elevation. So 16.2:1, four clicks coarser than usual, and four pulses at 35 seconds each finishing at 2:30 for a 3:20 brew time.

October 2021 Coffee: Kaffibrugghúsið Sweeties and stunningly unique from Little Wolf

Kaffibrugghúsið Guatemala Los Arroyos – It has been a little while since we got to drink these Icelandic sweethearts, normally the time between using them is quite long due to the high shipping costs and how long it actually takes to get here (note the coffee was roasted 2-3 weeks ago). Here we are again, amazed over the sweet caramelized profiles of the Kaffibrugghúsið roasted coffee. Los Arroyos is a 50 hectare farm at 1600 MASL owned and operated by Felipe Venenciano Martinez Lopez and his three sons. Los Arroyos is part of a collective of farms that works exclusively with Ally, the importer this was brought to Europe by. Mostly only washed coffees are produced here, and all processing is done on site. The coffee is processed at higher elevations than typical for the region to slow down fermentation to create greater complexity, and then dried at a lower elevation to quickly dry. I tasted sweet mango nectar, grapefruit, and brown sugary chocolate hazelnut notes. There was also a strange sensation while drinking this one. It was like if you could capture the flavor of incense burning and put it in the cup, which is difficult to explain. Maybe someone will understand when tasting it. I brewed this with a 16.7:1 water to coffee ratio and ground it right at my typical starting point. It is a rather low density bean, so with this grind I poured slow wider circles rather than grinding super fine. I poured these slower circles spaced out by 30 seconds and four pulses. My drop time was 3:10.

Kaffibrugghúsið Ethiopia Acacia – This is actually my first washed Ethiopian from this roaster, which I was a little nervous about considering the typical profile of their coffees. I love them for the natural sweetness in the American coffees, but did not know how African Acidity would work. This is an intensely flavorful and acidic washed Ethiopia Heirloom also coming from Ally. The name Acacia comes from Ethiopia’s national tree, not for any real reason other than it needed a name LOL. This lot is produced by local smallholders in the Guji region that carefully pick ripe cherries from their trees, and then depulp and wash the cherries by hand in concrete canals at the local washing station. Wooden paddles are used to move the cherries around during fermentation to remove the mucilage and make sure the seed is clean. When this coffee is freshly brewed and hot, it was A Belgian Quad Ale. So basically malty spice with excellent sweetness. It then changed to a more classic Ethiopia flavor profile of lavender, peach, and tart berries. On the less boring side, it has a vanilla-cinnamon pear pie vibe. I am making this interesting with the brew on this one. I would overall recommend the same grind setting, six clicks coarser than standard grind setting as this is a washed Ethiopia. I poured two pulses spaced out by 40 seconds finishing my last pour 1:45. Now, I used ratios between 16.2:1 and 17:1. At 16.2 you will get more lemon acidity and tartness. At 17 you will get more of the lavender and prickly pear notes. I recommend using both ratios as I would consider both to be “dialed in”, however I love when I can alter the profile.

Little Wolf Honduras La Bendicion – This is a modestly sized, 2nd generation farm located in the Ocotepeque region. The farmer is Edgar Giron who has operated the farm for decades. The farm was mostly used for produce and livestock until about 2007. 2007 was also a year that specialty coffee roasters were gaining traction in cities all across the world. Producers like Giron notice this. Better coffee can be produced if there is a market for it, and there will be new producers standing out making fantastic new coffee if we continue demanding the high quality coffee we are growing so used to. Giron has continued growing a diverse selection of produce and using some as shade trees for the coffee plants. The main varietal in this lot is the IHCAFE 90, a mainly Honduran hybrid varietal that is high yielding and rust-resistant, an important factor in lower elevations Honduras producers are required to address in growing practices. I did not get a lot of red fruit or cherry notes which is what was described to me. I do agree that it is very sweet, and I would say pairing this one with the Kaffibrugghusid Guatemala would be great coffees for people that hate acidic coffees, but also interesting because both profiles are indicative of their respective country of origin. This Honduras is super smooth and silky and it took me three brews to find the holy grail of extraction. I tasted mostly notes like white grape and lemongrass which are fairly mild tasting notes generally. The coffee has a lot of complexity going in the background and is super sweet. I brewed this coffee with a 16.2:1 ratio, ground it one click coarser than my typical starting point, and poured four pulses spaced out by 35 seconds. My final pour finished at 2:35 for a 3:15 drop time.

Little Wolf Nicaragua La Bendicion – This La Bendicion farm is located in the Diplito mountain ranges, specifically Nueva Segovia located in the northwest of Nicaragua along the Honduran border. The famer is Luis Alberto Ballabarez. Luis is known for Little Wolf Nicaragua La Bendicion – This La Bendicion farm is located in the Diplito mountain ranges, specifically Nueva Segovia located in the northwest of Nicaragua along the Honduran border. The farmer is Luis Alberto Ballabarez. Luis is known for attention to detail. Detail at every stage of the process starting with cherry picking schedules, to drying times that vary depending on the process. This particular coffee is a natural processed version of the Kenyan varietal SL34. I am going to start looking for more coffees from this farmer as I am obsessed with the quality coming from Nicaragua in the last couple years, and Luis is at the top. I know another roaster that I would not use for this that had a Pacamara from Luis and I would love for a trusted roaster to get this. The farm is ideal for coffee growing conditions, sitting at 1600-1800 MASL with loose, sandy soil rich from the biodiversity of the farm. The cup was super pleasant but also rich with complexity. I tasted plum, blackberry or possibly gooseberry. There was a sour red fruit note. I brewed this with a 16.3:1 ratio, and ground it two clicks coarser than my standard starting grind setting. I poured three pulses spaced out by 40 seconds, finishing my last pour at 2:15 for a 3:05 drop time.

September Coffee: Vivid Coffee Roasters – – Kaffa

Kaffa El Pino – I sincerely wish I could have gotten this one to more people as it was the surprise this month. I don’t know why it was a surprise, as it is the #2 Acevedo cup winner. Maybe I’m just a bad person with bad coffee intentions? El Pino is the farm of famous producer Maria Asecencio. This lot is a classic washed Colombia varietal. It was wet fermented (washed) for just 12 hours and then removed and dry fermented (natural, kind of) for 36 hours. This produced a CLEAN CLEAN cup with acidity and stone fruit. Asecensio included the following note for all drinkers of her coffee: “I’d like to tell the consumers that my life has not been easy. I got where I am with discipline, dedication and work. I have obtained my things and I have a wonderful husband who supports me in my daily ventures and I am very committed to the quality of coffee. My pride is to get to be differentiated in the national and international market. I hope you like my coffee since it is processed in a clean and safe way and with great effort.” This cup is jammy, clean, full of blackberry, vanilla, finish of geranium flower and/or wormwood (Yes i’m saying it is a little Malort-y). I brewed this with a 16:1 ratio and ground it right on the click of my usual Colombia grind setting. I poured four pulses spaced out by 30 seconds, finishing my last pour at 2:20 for a 2:55 drop time.

Kaffa Kenya Berco – One of the greatest benefits of working with European roasters is the connection to producers in African countries. I am not sure how they build the relationships so much faster than U.S. roasters, could possibly just be proximity in geography. Berco is the name of Theophilas Mwangi’s farm in Nyeri, Kenya. Berco has the luxury of rich, volcanic soil perfect for growing coffee. Typically the lots are grown at 1750-1800 MASL and Mwangi exclusively grows SL28 and SL34 trees. No Batian bullshit. This is a glorious Kenya with big sweetness and more reserved acidity than typical. I tasted Scuppernong, Grapefruit, raspberry, with a lingering molasses finish. The sweetness was rounded out and danced alongside the bright fruit notes. I brewed this with a 15.5:1 ratio and ground it four clicks coarser than usual starting point. I poured two pulses slowly with wide circles to extend the brew time slightly, finishing at 1:50. My drop time was 2:40.

Vivid Colombia Pink Bourbon – I sure hope everyone has been enjoying the Pink Bourbon as much as I have, because it is basically a 100% confirmed subscription coffee when a roaster has one. This one comes to us from Gabriel Castano, a farmer from Huila. Huila has always been associated with quality, however, recently the clean profiles always associated with the region have gone from just “nice” coffee to exotic and exciting. Gabriel Castano stumbled on the Pink Bourbon tree early on in the history of the varietal. It tasted fantastic, as PB does. Gabriel decided to plant as much PB as possible. The mutation of Bourbon was originally loved by farmers as it was resistant to rust and did not require as much fertilizer but results have been inconsistent. Gabriel is one of the farmers that belongs to a cooperative in Huila that Vivid has committed to working with year after year and ordered this lot directly. This lot specifically was fermented for 90 hours (24-36 hours is standard) and this extension ramped up the tropical fruit notes to beautiful levels. I tasted Cranberry, Pink Lemonade, and Cabernet. I brewed this coffee with a 15.3:1 ratio and ground it at my typical starting point. I poured three pulses staged by 35 seconds, with a drop time of 2:45.

Ripe Pink Bourbon cherries at Gabriel Castano’s farm.

Ethiopia Raro – This one stood out to me on the cupping table because of the intense red fruit. It was sitting next to another washed Ethiopia that had a classic profile that was beautiful. This one felt more exotic and out of the norm for a washed Ethiopia. Raro is a washing station located on Uraga, my favorite region in Ethiopia. Raro is comprised of 543 smallholding farmers, so any traceability on producer or varietals is typically impossible. We do know that all coffee is grown locally meaning staggering elevations of 2200 MASL. This is a standard Uraga washing process, fermented for around 36 hours and dried on African Beds for Two weeks. Tasting the Raro next to the other Ethiopia was interesting because while the Raro does have the classic notes of lemon, lavender, and jasmine, I was not even thinking about this as all I could taste was the extra. The extra consisted of wild strawberry and raspberry. I sincerely wish I would have ordered more for myself after the original sample. I would also recommend using this for espresso and/or cold brew. I brewed this with 15.7:1 ratio and ground it 5-6 clicks coarser than the typical starting point. I poured two pulses, one from 30-60 seconds, and the second from 75-110 seconds. My drop time was 2:25.

P.S. – I had the chance to visit Vivid last month in Burlington at the new shop and got to see the new beautiful black and gold roaster. Hopefully next time around we can try coffee from it once it is hooked up.

August 2021: Junto Special Colombia Varietal and April looks to Alejo Castrok’s new project in Costa Rica

Junto Guatemala Finca Medina – It was just one month ago, I was so excited that I was using an alternatively processed Guatemala because I hadn’t seen much progress from the Country. I am once again here to tell you I am feeling like the luckiest boy in the world because of this yellow honey from Antigua. Finca Medina is a Coffee Estate with two farms, this lot is from the farm that came first, which is why the lot is called Finca Medina. This is a Bourbon-Marsellesa (Marsellesa is a hybrid of Caturra and Sarchi) grown at 1700 MASL in the mile-high city of Antigua. I tasted cotton candy, butterscotch, and orange candy. Similar to the Guatemala last month, I had to grind this coffee surprisingly coarse. 4 clicks coarser than my usual starting point; I believe it has to do with how dense this bean is. I brewed this coffee with a 16.3:1 ratio and poured three pulses spaced out by 35 seconds for a 2:50 drop time.

Junto Colombia Santiago Caro Chiroso – So I almost passed on this absolute baddie due to the high price, but Junto is a wonderful business with great people and I was able to use it this month thanks to their generosity. This is grown at 1930 MASL at the Santiago farm “Finca La Falda” in the Antioquia region by producer Santiago Caro. Santiago comes from a long line of coffee producers. His father Jose is the pioneer of this varietal called “Chiroso” and the Caro’s have won many best of Antioquia competitions with this varietal. The actual Varietal has also won multiple Cup Of Excellence competitions by other producers. Chiroso is still a new varietal but is becoming recognized by producers as a possible Gesha of Colombia. I tasted lavender, elderberry, lemon, pastry dough, and this coffee had a sparkling acidic body. I ground this coffee a few clicks coarser than usual for a washed Colombia, and brewed it with a 16.5:1 ratio. I poured three pulses spaced out by 35 seconds and my drop time was 3:00.

Caro’s Coffee Estate in Antioquia

April Kenya Kainamui PB – The April roasted Kenyan coffee is generally what I would refer to as a delicacy. When April-founder Patrik Rolf casually suggested this and mentioned it was a Peaberry, I knew it would be perfect. It is. This is from the Kainimui factory, grown at 1800-1900 MASL. This is only SL28 and SL34 and as Peaberry isn’t always a bountiful harvest, April had to purchase the entire lot to make this coffee work for their lineup. I tasted blackberry, grapefruit, lemon, and honey. I ground this coffee super coarse and poured several small pulses. While this brings the acidity down a bit, the berry fruit and sweetness in this bean is unreal. I brewed it with a 15.8:1 ratio with 6 pulses. Also, my bloom was only 20 seconds because it dried out so fast, there was hardly any gas activity in the bloom. My pours were spaced out by 30 seconds for a 3:10 drop time.

April Costa Rica Hacienda Colima – This is an exciting new coffee for me as it is from Alejo Castrok’s new farm. Castrok owns the famous Volcan Azul estate so I have high hopes for the new projects to come from this farm. This is a Natural processed 1500 MASL Caturra grown under Castrok’s intense quality practices. Right away this funky natural tasted like an intensely fruited Cabernet. I also tasted grape juice and cardamom. This is a super complex natural. The days of single note naturals are over! I brewed this with a 16.5:1 ratio and ground it slightly coarser than usual. Just one click coarser than my typical starting point. I poured three pulses spaced out by 35 seconds, and my drop time was 2:50.

The legend Alejo Castrok at new farm “Hacienda Colima” in Costa Rica