April Coffee: Well, April Coffee Roasters (and two beautiful Honduran Coffees from Vivid)

I think the time has come to stop writing an introductory excerpt about my long, arduous journey to finding the roasters I’m using each month. Beginning to feel like a foodie blog. No kale risotto here. Even though this is an intro. Whatever. Here are the coffees this month:

  1. April Brazil Esperança – The first Brazilian coffee to grace our presence in the history of Stimulus! This is a farm that April works with directly and also was the first Brazilian coffee that I ever served at Purple Llama. Throughout my entire specialty coffee career, coffee from Brazil was basically frowned upon. Now in the year 2021, Brazil is an origin I could not be more excited about. The potential in this country from decades of being the biggest producer of coffee in the world is coming together with the specialty coffee movement in a great way. Farmers are making progressive moves with their land and processing in new ways. What drove me to this coffee specifically for this month was the fact that it is a peaberry Rubi. I have not had a peaberry from Brazil ever and Rubi is a hybrid varietal grown only in Brazil. Also, a varietal I have not experienced. This coffee tastes like no other Brazil I have ever had. Even the “Good Brazils” still have some of that nutty, peanut note. This coffee is super clean and fruity. No earthy notes either. I tasted hazelnut, cardamom, red grape, and strawberry preserve. This was still a very “April” coffee so these flavors are pretty delicate, yet come together to create a super smooth and crushable cup. I brewed this coffee with a 15.5:1 ratio, with a grind size slightly coarser than a standard washed Colombia grind setting. I poured three pulses following my bloom, each spaced out by 35 seconds. I finished pouring at 2:05 and my drop time was 2:55.
  2. April Ethiopia Gesha Village (Washed Illubador) – Sorry to get your hopes up, this in not in fact a Gesha coffee. It is however from the Gesha Village Coffee Estate in western Ethiopia. The story behind Gesha Village is beautiful and I encourage everyone to read more about it. April typically buys several lots from Gesha Village each harvest and I always try to get my hands on as much of it as I can. The classic Gesha notes of jasmine and big sweentess paired with the native coffee terroir gives birth to great coffees. Again, this coffee is not a Gesha varietal though. The varietal is Illubador, a varietal I don’t know a ton about. However, from perusing the webs I am pretty sure it is a wild-grown varietal from the region that the people from Gesha Village decided to grow. It is a Gesha-like varietal found in the surrounding Gori Gesha forest around the estate. This coffee is stunning. First sip hit me with a caramel butterscotch berry blast. Following said blast, I got hit with rose, cabernet, honeysuckle, and meyer lemon. I brewed this coffee with a 15:1 ratio, with a COARSE COARSE COARSE grind setting. I can’t really give a good descriptor for how coarse because of just how coarse it was, but on a normal Baratza I would go 5-6 clicks coarser than usual, and 3 clicks coarser on something like a Porlex (much bigger steps). I slowly poured two pulses as to not agitate the fines too much causing the flow to stop up, finishing my second pour 2:10. My final brew time was 2:50. This is a truly delicate and intricate coffee so I probably won’t experiment too much with coarser grind/more pulses, but instead will enjoy how it develops in the coming days/weeks.
  3. Vivid Honduras Nahun Fernandez – I am amazed at how closely Vivid has been working with Honduras in the past year. Vivid’s owner Ian has visited multiple farms in Honduras and has established relationships with producers I wouldn’t have ever heard of otherwise, and that kind of work is what keeps me interested in coffee. This coffee is a honey-processed Parainema, another newer varietal for me. According to Ian, it typically is grown in Honduras for a more citrusy profile. With the honey process, it creates a sweet, fruit-forward cup. Nahun Fernandez’s farm and processing station are shared with his brothers and father, where they are able to pool their knowledge together to produce exceptional coffees. Nahun began working with a huge Australian (and now global) roaster called Proud Mary a couple years ago, which has helped him become even better as innovative processing techniques and new varietals. I look forward to trying more coffees from here, especially roasted by Vivid. The first sip blew my mind. All the flavor hit me in waves, with the final wave (what one might call aftertaste) was the best one. It was like a mango lassi. This coffee overall had big flavor. I tasted boysenberry syrup, orange, black cherry, and as mentioned, mango lassi. I brewed this coffee with a 16:1 ratio and since this is a honey processed big bean, I knew it would drop out quick. I ground it a couple clicks finer than usual, and poured four pulses spaced out by 30 seconds. I finished my fourth pour at 2:30, and the drop time was 3:00. I will also experiment with a 16.5:1 ratio and trying to extend the total brew time to see what other flavor lies in this bean.
  4. Vivid Honduras Ervin Lopez – I am BEYOND thrilled to share this one with everyone. Last year when I first tried this coffee, it was on a cupping table with a couple other roasters that I actually knew (Vivid was unbeknownst to me at the time) and this coffee was the best one. It made the decision of choosing Vivid and this specific coffee so easy. The lemon acidity that punched through the cup was like nothing I had ever had from Honduras. It still had that complex sweetness that I love from the Santa Barbara region. Ervin Lopez has a very small lot to plant trees on – less than half of a hectare, which is filled with exclusively Pacas. This plot was given to him by his father, and now he produces, picks, harvests, and processes all the coffee on site with his wife. As far as google shows, Vivid is the only roaster that uses his coffee. Just like last year, Ervin Lopez’s coffee is great. I tasted less lemon, but more sweetness. I got a lot of lime, red tea, and molasses. This is at the same time a crowd pleaser, and also a delightful, intricate beauty. I brewed this coffee with a 16.3:1 ratio and ground it barely finer than a standard starting grind size. I poured three pulses spaced out by 40 seconds, finishing at 2:10. My drop time was 2:50.

March Coffee: Kaffibrugghusid and Junto HEAT

Not sure which roaster to geek out over more this month. This month Junto came through so hard with their offerings that I was able to choose three distinct coffees; a couple of you might even have more than three different Junto coffees depending on if you partook in the special add-on coffees from Colombia. But also I got coffee from Sonja Bjork Grant and Njall Bjorgvinsson, the owners of Kaffibrugghusid located in Iceland; they are two champions of furthering specialty coffee across the globe and also World Barista champions themselves. Anyone that has been to Iceland would agree that it is possibly the coolest lil blob of land in the world. They drink more coffee than anyone, and they drink the good shit. I was able to meet Njall approximately 2 seconds before Covid took over the world and the knowledge was just so deep, I felt like a coffee child again. The coffees are also roasted wonderfully. They put an emphasis on balanced sweetness, however in the background there is wild acidity that makes these coffees stand up against any other roaster in the world. I have already shared my love to Junto in my May feature post, so if you want to know more about them please find that post farther back in the Stimmy archives.

Junto Rwanda Ngoma Cyeshero Hill – This coffee is technically in Junto\’s \”Black Label\” series of coffee meaning it is going to be more experimental and usually much more expensive. Lucky us, it was barely below the maximum price threshold to be included in the subscription. This is a 1500-1800 MASL Red Bourbon from a farm owned by Baho Coffee exporters. The Cyeshero Hill area is a new project taken on to practice separating lots in to many smaller separate lots in an effort to support producers and increase traceability. Cyeshero Hill also has an emphasis on experimental processing. This coffee specifically is what the owner Emmanuel Rusatira describes as \”Intango Natural\”. The Intango comes from an ancient Rwandan tradition where fruit is packed in to clay jars to ferment (Intango means a clay vessel to ferment in). These vessels are sealed after packing the coffee cherries in, and as the bag says; it ferments for 100 hours. The result is a bright and interesting coffee that takes on flavors from the porous clay during the fermentation. I tasted orange cream soda and persimmon right up front, and lime with a sparkling body. This coffee had excellent brightness. I brewed this with a 15.8:1 ratio using a grind setting I would typically use for a Central American (finer than expected for an African Coffee.) I slowly poured two pulses for this one. My first pour went from 40 seconds to 70 seconds, then waited 15 more seconds and poured my second pulse from 85 seconds to 115 seconds. My drop time was 2:40.

Junto Colombia Karen Montero – I love a classic, delicious washed Colombia. That is exactly what this one is. This is a Castillo/Caturra/V. Colombia mix from the Cauca region. This mix is quite common for Cauca, a key coffee producing region in Colombia know for both specialty and commodity. I typically enjoy most coffees from here, meaning I will drink them but nothing to write home about. However if I find one like this with a lil acidity, lil fruit, mmm. I could not find a ton of information online about Karen Montero, but know she has had coffees in the Cup of Excellence a few times. She also is part of Coffee for Peace, an alliance of coffee producers, marketers, and other various coffee trades in Colombia to increase traceability in dangerous areas of Colombia. The cup has a sticky sweet bourbon marmalade note, and a delicate yet sweet body, and a long sweet caramel finish. On the v60 I brewed this with a 16.3:1 ratio with a pretty standard normal Colombia grind setting, because this is a super normal Colombian coffee. I poured three pulses spaced out by 35 seconds. The drop time was 2:45. However on the Wilfa Auto-dripper, I ground it pretty fine and used an 18.2:1 ratio to brew a super delicate and delicious cup. I look forward to experimenting with this one more as I love the delicate sweetness.

Junto Nicaragua Finca Lo Prometido & Finca La Bendicion Java – This complicated yet down to earth bean comes from producer Luis Alberto Balladarez. Balladarez owns both Lo Prometido and La Bendicion listed on the bag. He grew the Java varietal on both farms and upon tasting each harvest decided to blend them to create this lot. Java is an interesting varietal that still confused me. I know it is really hard to grow which is why all of the lots are so small, and it can be really tricky to brew. Once you figure out the brew the finished product is always so so sweet and exotic tasting. This version is natural processed and grown at 1300-1650 MASL. Upon first sipping it, I thought I was tasting a note I sometimes find in Nicaragua coffees that I can\’t stand. Something like peanut or almond. However it was more sweet and turned in to a sugary pastry flavor. I tasted pistachio ice cream, cola, and English style ale in the cup. Each sip leaves a long lingering maple finish. This would be an amazing espresso if you have that capability. I brewed this with a 16:1 ratio and ground it a couple clicks finer than a typical Colombian coffee. I poured three pulses spaced out by 35 seconds with a drop time of 3:05.

Kaffibrugghusid Congo Bahavu – This is a washed Bourbon/Catimore mix grown at elevations between 1450 and 2000 MASL. The coffee is grown from various small holders on the island called Idjwi in the middle of Lake Kivu, bordering Rwanda to the east. Idjwi Island has about 250,000 people on it (70% of the total population of Iceland lol) and 2,500 of them are coffee farmers. All of the coffee on the island is considered “shade-grown” which just means taller trees are surrounding the coffee trees to avoid sun scorching. Also, all of the mills are hydro-powered and the island is powered by solar panels. In this coffee I tasted geranium and Sprite up front with a super flavorful finish of licorice, strawberry, and herbs. I brewed this with a 16.5:1 ratio and slightly finer than I would grind a typical Congo, closer to a Colombia grind setting. I poured three pulses spaced out by 40 seconds after a 30 second bloom, finishing my last pour at 170 seconds. The total brew time was 2:55.

“African Beds” at Bahavu

Kaffibrugghusid Colombia Los Deseos – This washed Huila is 100% Caturra and is far from a basic washed Colombia… Los Deseos is a farm at 1750 MASL owned by a group of farmers from the Andes mountains that have lost their land due to violence and conflict in the region. They pool together their resources and knowledge to create excellent farming conditions for coffee to grow. I love the idea of this project because growing and learning together will always be the best way to strengthen skills and become better at whatever you do. In the cup I tasted honey, rose, pear, nougat, with a creamy mouthfeel. This coffee was delightful. A super bright and sweet Huila that is un-hateable. I went a little different with the brewing on this one. I used a 16.8:1 ratio and ground it a couple clicks coarser than usual. I poured five pulses spaced out by 30 seconds with a drop time of 3:25.

The gorgeous Los Deseos farm in San Augustin Mountains

That is a wrap for this month. I loved all five of the coffees this month so much and hope everyone enjoys what they got. As always let me know if there was anything you especially liked or disliked so I can get everyone their favorites! If you need help brewing either of the special add-on coffees shoot me a message and I\’ll let you know how I brewed them.

Thank you for reading,

– Dylan Connell

February Coffee: Ecuador Francisco Vintimilla and Burundi Gaharo Hill

Ecuador Francisco Vintimilla (Putuchio) – Sey Ecuadors are what keep me motivated to continue investing my time in coffee. The flavors and complexity from terroir, advanced picking skills, and processing are like nowhere else in the world. However, they are usually a LOT more expensive than any other coffee so y\’all better appreciate this stuff. Francisco Vintimilla is new to the specialty coffee world, with his oldest trees on the farm planted 5 years ago, and I look forward to seeing how the growing progresses in the years to come. The varietal is Mejorado which is Bourbon cross-bred with unknown Ethiopia Heirloom varietals. This is a classic washing process – floated, depulped, 24 hour fermentation and dried in a greenhouse. I know a lot of subscribers here love funky processing but trust me, with a coffee like this we want it to be washed to taste all the natural flavors produced from local conditions. I taste bright candied fruit up front, then pastry dough, persimmon, and caramelized sugar (might just be more pastry dough). This coffee is the epitome of tea-like, so make sure you wash that mouth out before you get to drinking. I brewed this coffee with a 16.3:1 ratio with a slightly coarser grind than usual. If you received the Lugmapata from Little Wolf last month, probably around that grind setting. I poured a 30 second bloom, and then poured three pulses in 30 second increments at 30 s, 60 s, and 90 s. The total brew time was 2:50. 

Burundi Gaharo Hill – Gaharo Hill is home to the original Long Miles project, a project I have been following for several years as it started from two people and has grown across numerous districts in Burundi. This lot specifically is made up of 7 different lots from local farmers, so the exact varietals are tricky to guess; however, most likely it\’s Red Bourbon and Mibirizi (variant of Bourbon local to Rwanda/Burundi). The exact percentages are not known so without varietal nerding out too hard, lets just fuckin drink it! In this cup I tasted caramel brownie, dried fig, chardonnay, and lime. Classic Burundi profile, but with that crispy Sey clarity. I brewed this coffee slightly finer than typical v60 grind with a 15.7:1 ratio. The coffee bloomed for 35 seconds, then I poured two pulses spaced 40 seconds apart, finishing my last pour at 100 s. The total brew time was 2:45. 

The cutest little bag of coffee in the game: Little Wolf Coffee from Ipswich, Massachusetts

Those close to me have surely heard me rant about the phenomenon of small micro-roasters that have popped up across the lower Midwest and the southern United States in the last few years. They have outstanding packaging that makes me say, \”Well there is just no way that the coffee is NOT going to be good… I mean look at the subtle off-white lettering\” etc. and so on. Somewhat annoyingly, the owners of those tend to be people with little to no experience in specialty coffee, but do know that a beautiful bag of coffee sells itself. I am super upset about it obviously. Anyway, Little Wolf is not one of those companies, despite how adorable the packaging is. The owners Chris and Melissa are fantastic business owners and coffee experts. In my opinion, they are possibly one of the top 5 roasters in the U.S. The coffee they roast is clean, complex, and sourced with focus. Their dedication has earned them dozens of awards and on the shelves of the top multi-roaster cafes in the country. I am excited to share these coffees with you in this absolutely fucked yet hopeful month of January 2021. 

1. Ecuador Lugmapata

Finca Lugmapata is everything to me. This is a farm owned by Enrique Moreno, the producer that convinced me that the most excited coffee producing country in the world is Ecuador. Other countries use rare or transplanted varietals, however other countries do not have the terroir of Ecuador. This specific lot is 100% Bourbon Sidra, one of my favorite varietals of coffee grown in one of my favorite coffee producing nations. Normally Sidra is much more expensive, so it is a miracle I was able to bring it to everyone. This coffee was everything I wanted it to be. Clean, fruity, floral, perfect. I tasted honeysuckle, mango, kiwi, and dulce de leche on the finish. I\’m surely going to use the rest of this coffee as an espresso because of the complexity, and I recommend anyone with that option should take advantage of it. I brewed this coffee with a 16.5:1 ratio and a slightly coarser grind with two pulses. My second pulse finished around 1:45 for a 2:35 total brew time. 

2. Colombia Las Perlitas:

This Colombian coffee was grown in Huila, a region celebrated by specialty coffee for it\’s progress in creating clean coffees that do not need to be thrown in to a blend. Las Perlitas is a co-op, meaning local smallholder farmers bring leftover coffees on site to sell, that will be mixed. This one specifically, reminds of a classic coffee shop house blend (of  green coffee varietals, not roasted coffees from different countries). Caturra is the base making up the majority, Pink Bourbon for sparkling acidity, and lastly a small amount of Gesha to add a little… exotic. I tasted plum, raspberry, sparking lavender tea, and honey; one of the jammiest Colombian coffees. It was easy to brew and I am predicting a lot of different methods will make this coffee shine. Personally, I used a 16:1 ratio and used my go-to starting v60 grind setting with three total pulses. I finished my last pour at 1:55 with a 2:50 total brew time. I might try two pulses with a finer grind next time to get more brightness out of the cup. 

3. Ethiopia Demeka Becha

The Demeka Becha site is located in the Sidama region of Ethiopia, owned by a man named Ayela Tulu. This is a project created to modernize the way Ethiopia does coffee production. Tulu is said to be inspired by the global specialty coffee community, and the way it is able to connect throughout different cultures and nations. This coffee ended up being a tad more sweet than bright, which is unusual for Ethiopian coffees. However, it is honey processed, which leads me to expect a balance between sweetness and brightness. I tasted ripe peach, jasmine, and a nutty praline-like sweetness. I initially used a 15:1 ratio as it looked like a lighter than light Ethiopia but the cup was earthy and heavy, so I extended my next brew to 16.5:1. This brought out more fruit and cleaned the cup up. I ground this one a couple clicks coarser than usual and poured two pulses. I finished my second pulse at 1:45 for a total brew time of 2:30. 

4. Peru Oropel

At this point I\’m realizing I might as well have called January the Andes mountain edition (minus the Demeka Becha of course). I don\’t think I have ever had a Peruvian coffee that fits the words \”exotic\” or \”intricate\”, however they are so damn good. I actually wrote a super embarrassing blog post several years ago about my love for Peruvian coffees you can find HERE. Oropel is a 2190 MASL Typica/Pache varietal. The \”Oropel\” part of this comes from the Santiago de Oropel community this coffee belongs to. The farmer is Vilcopoma Camargo Hugo. Hugo  is one of those producers that inspires all of us to be better – better at what we do, and better for our communities. I even hear he is planting Gesha, unheard of in Peru. This coffee was amazingly sweet. It initially tasted like a warm caramelly hot chocolate. In the finish I tasted a dried fruit/raisin note that lingered long after the last sip. It also has the SILKIEST body of any coffee in recent memory. It is a fairly simple coffee but something I could drink every day, and will probably be the best coffee to brew in a larger format. I brewed this with a 16.2:1 ratio, and ground it slightly finer than usual starting grind setting. I poured three total pulses with my last pour finishing at 2:10 for a 3:00 total brew time. 

I hope everyone had a great holiday, and just wanted everyone to know how much I appreciate the support and wisdom received throughout the process of starting this group. Since I started the subscription in May, I have not yet repeated a roaster in the rotation. I will begin reusing the valued roaster partners I have grown to love and developed relationships with. I really feel it is important to maintain strong relationships with the roasting partners. The value of roasters knowing what I/you will like and knowing their skillsets benefit all parties. However, because the Coffee Club has grown so much, from now on I will be ditching the single roaster showcase model and everyone receiving more than one coffee per month should be expecting coffee from two different roasters.

December Julekaffe from Langøra Kaffebrenneri

I have actually known who would get the coveted \”December Coffee\” for months because of course, it had to be the roaster in the North Pole. This roaster holds off on releasing over half of their in-stock coffee until late November just to have the absolute best \”Julekaffe\” lineup in the game. The roaster being Langøra Kaffebrenneri from Stjordal, Norway. Mostly every roastery/brewery/distiller etc. in Scandinavia or even Northern Europe takes the Holiday special very seriously, but Langøra takes the cake for releasing the most outstanding products in the Julekaffe business. I was able to distribute four unique coffees that all were part of the holiday release. They also have the coolest front page video on their website

1. Honduras Capucas

Celaque National Park where Capucas Co-op is located

The first coffee comes to us from the Las Capucas region in the western corner of Honduras. This mix of Caturra and Catuai comes from various smallholder microlots and processed at the Capucas Co-op. It is processed as a Berry-dried Anaerobic, which from my previous post on advanced processing we now know means that the entire cherry was thrown in to sealed fermentation tanks. This fermentation lasted 72 hours. This is one of the more simple anaerobic coffees I have had, although it does pack some funky flavors. Which really just means I didn\’t get slapped in the face with tropical fruits and sweetness. However, the profile is lovely with flavors of Papaya, Cola, Clove, Strawberry. Embarrassingly, it took me almost three tries to brew this coffee right. Turns out I was grinding way too fine which was producing bitterness and I needed to use a lower ratio of water to coffee than anticipated.  I brewed this coffee with a 15.5:1 ratio with a coarser grind setting. I did a setting 2 clicks coarser than a standard setting and poured 3 pulses separate by 35 seconds. My third pour finished at 1:45 and my final brew time was 2:35. 

2. Ethiopia Gedeb Worka

I would not have guessed this coffee to be natural processed. It has such a clean profile with clarified fruit and delicate florals that played tricks on my brain. I have had many coffees in my life from the Worka Co-op in Yirgacheffe, so I initially shook this one off as maybe not being as interesting or traceable with a story as I like to share with everyone. However, delicious flavors will overcome any other selection criteria. I initially tasted a rush of honey, jasmine, and stone fruit. However, I did not receive enough coffee to dial this in. As a few of you know, I did not receive the entire order and I did not get my bag of this coffee and was not able to dial it in. Please check back in a few days for my brewing recommendations. To start I would recommend grinding 2-3 clicks coarser than normal starting point with a 16:1 coffee to water ratio.

3. Mexico Marisela Esperon

This super cool can of beans comes from producer Marisela Esperon from Oaxaca, Mexico. The Esperon family has been producing coffee in the region for decades. While many other neighboring farms and producers have abandoned coffee production due to low income, the Esperon family has invested in their craft and specialty production. They mostly grow Typica and Bourbon varietals like the one in this can, and generally use a controlled Natural Process to produce their award-winning coffee.When hot, I got a mouth full of caramel sweetness with exotic/tropical flavors to follow. Once cooled, it was less sweet but more tart. Everlasting Gobstopper tart. This is the best coffee I have had from Mexico. Strange that we are so close to Mexico yet this beautiful cup was sent to Northern Norway to be roasted and then shipped back here. I brewed this coffee with a 16:1 ratio and ground it a little bit coarser than usual. To offset the coarser grind I poured wider circles in order to push the super finely ground coffee to the bottom of the brewer and slow down the brew. I poured three pulses at 35 second increments with my last pour ending at 1:50. The drop time was 2:45. 

4. Guatemala La Libertad

This classic Guatemala profile comes from high in the mountains of Huehuetenango, the region in northwest Guatemala that seems to produce the best coffee year after year. La Libertad is the name of the town this coffee was processed in. This coffee was processed at a mill shared by many smallholder farmers that bring their highest quality ripe cherries to be blended with other farmers to create a sustainable life for their families. I refer to this coffee as a \”crowd-pleaser\” profile. Sweet and simple if you want it to be, however if you fancy to go digging there is much to discover. Notes of rich cacao, brulee, and wild cherry. I brewed this coffee with a 16:1 ratio using a slightly finer grind than usual. I followed a 30 second interval pulse schedule, pouring at 40 s, 70 s, and 100 s with a final brew time of 2:50. 

That wraps up the coffee selection this month. If you would like help brewing the two add-on April coffees this month, please reach out to me directly as I will not include the fancy stuff on my write-up for the main subscription. Have a great holiday everyone and see you when we get to say 2021! 

Innovative Processing Discussion – Anaerobic, Honey, Carbonic Maceration

The words Anaerobic and Carbonic Maceration did not exist in the specialty coffee industry until about five years ago. In my world, they did not exist until this past year. My own \”pandemic special\” if you will. It took me a long time to understand the difference in processing of these coffees and what it means for flavor development. I am in no way teaching this information from personal experience. Rather, I am sharing what I\’ve learned based on educational materials provided by the very best green coffee importers and producers in hopes that this information can also be a helpful resource to understand the story behind each coffee we drink.

ANAEROBIC

I have tossed the term anaerobic around in a pretty nonchalant way in this subscription without really explaining the meaning and impact this has on the future of specialty coffee. Basically there is an added step to the typical Washed/Natural/Honey process to yield an Anaerobic process – sealing the coffee in a tank to cut off oxygen. 

In the \”Washed Anaerobic\” process, the coffee cherries are depulped of all cherry and mucilage in the normal washing process. The coffee would then be sent to fermentation tanks in an open environment for 18-36 hours (generally), and then \”washed\” with turbulent water to remove all mucilage. The difference in Anaerobic would be the post-depulp stage. Rather than having an open fermentation tank like with a normal washed processing, the tanks (plastic, stainless steel, etc.) are hermetically sealed to prevent air from coming in. Next is where it gets interesting – the depulped mucilage is gathered, packed together, and then spread across the coffee seeds till evenly coated. Once sealed, the oxygen in the tank is diminished by the Carbon Dioxide production. 

The time spent in sealed fermentation tanks is completely up to the producer and what they are trying to do. I have seen some for 18 hours and some for 400 hours at colder temperatures. The reason these coffees are so vibrant and delicious is from the flavors of the cherry being directly injected in the coffee seed due to cherry skin-contact during this oxygen-free environment. The control of pH, sugars, temperature, and yeast production is easily observed because of the smaller batch sizes. This extra effort is why we typically find these coffees to be a little more expensive. 

Alternatively, there is a \”honey style\” of anaerobic processing. The small difference here is that the coffee seeds are sent in to the tanks without depulping all of the mucilage. Since I brought it up, I figure I should explain why this is honey style, by giving a brief overview of honey processing. 

HONEY

Honey processing includes four different colors: White, Yellow, Red, and Black. Each color in this order corresponds to a different level of seed-in-cherry fermentation. These coffees when done correctly have an excellent marriage of sweetness, clarity, and fruit. 

The different colors mean something different as far as standards go in every country of origin. In general, white honey means mostly all mucilage is removed during depulping stage, yellow has slightly less mucilage removed, and so on. Additionally, black and red honeys have an extended fermentation time to create even more fruity flavors in the coffee. Black honeys are fermented the longest, and therefore require the most monitoring to prevent over-fermentation. 

To answer the obvious question; no. There is no actual honey involved. The use of the word honey refers to the stickiness of the seed following fermentation with the mucilage remaining on the seed. The stickiness level of the seed is developed through the most important stage of honey processing – the drying. If honey processed seeds are dried too quickly, the seed won\’t have enough time to absorb the mucilage flavors. If they are dried too slowly, the coffee bean risks over-fermentation. 

To find the balance in fermentation, the raking of the seeds on raised beds in the open air is extremely important. This control of the drying rate is what makes this an innovative process. The desirable flavors of natural process coffees are present, while minimizing the risks of over-fermentation. 

CARBONIC MACERATION (CM)

CM is a highly controlled, intricate version of Anaerobic processing. The process was developed by a famous coffee person named Sasa Sestic from Australia. Sestic worked closely with wine-makers who utilize this technique regularly, and particularly with a Colombian producer named Camilo Merizalde. 

When I first asked what this process meant, I thought it was just a pretentious way of saying it is Anaerobic. Turns out, it is in fact a nerdier version of Anaerobic. All the steps are followed after the depulping stage (or lack thereof in the case of a natural Anaerobic) and tank sealing. However, instead of the fermentation process letting the Carbon Dioxide consume the Oxygen in the tank, the tank is flushed with Carbon Dioxide at the very beginning, allowing the producer to completely control the amount of yeast, bacteria, fermentation, pressure, and temperature in the tank. 

The result is an intensely fruity yet clean brew. The coffee tastes pristine. However they are not cheap due to the cost of materials, labor, and the experience in coffee processing required for the proper fermentation. I hope to share a CM coffee with the subscription soon, as I would love for everyone to taste what I consider the most progressive processing technique the world has to offer right now. 

Thank you to everyone for reading/skimming this information. The test is next Tuesday. 

Just kidding, but I do hope if people were confused on what these processes mean, they can find clarity in my explanation. As mentioned above, this information is not entirely derived from my own personal knowledge, so here is a list of sources I used to gather this information:

https://blog.genuineorigin.com/2018/07/31/anaerobic-process-new-flavors-innovation/

https://projectorigin.com.au/cm-selections/

https://www.lacabra.dk/products/los-pirineos-semi-carbonic-maceration-petites

https://www.cafeimports.com/australia/blog/honey-process/

November Coffee: The Barn Brings the Funk

This month I bring back an old favorite; a roaster I sought out for years during college and finally was able to visit in 2016. My favorite part of the roaster was a memo sitting at the sugar/lids/straw station about their high quality sustainably-sourced raw cane sugar and how you should not use it because their coffee has natural sweet flavors that do need not be altered by additives. I was validated knowing that the pretentious coffee attitude I possessed was a global phenomena and I could find myself comforted halfway across the globe. That all being said, the roaster I am talking about is of course, The Barn! 

The Barn was the first international roaster brought to Chicago in 2017 and was greeted with open arms. On the order form, many of you stated they would love to see The Barn featured in the subscription. With the current coffee lineup The Barn is working with, I felt it was a great time to showcase the coffee they are capable of producing. 

1. Costa Rica Juanachute

Juanachute, Terrazu, Costa Rica

From the Terrazu region of Costa Rica comes the farm called Juanachute. Juanachute is technically classified as a \”micro-mill\” which is really just a classification of how much coffee is processed on site. Typically this is standard for most of the coffee from single-producer farms in Central/South America we drink, however this farm and mill was one of the first of this kind in Costa Rica. Producing small lots, not meant to be blend binders and commodity coffee was simply not done in Costa Rica. As with the changing market, Luis \”Tacho\” Castro decided to create coffees with close attention to detail in both growing and processing. Additionally, Tacho was curious to experiment. Curiosity led him to be one of the earliest adapters of the Anaerobic technique. So early in fact, Tacho created his own fermentation tank to accomplish this. I wish I had a photo of the tank, but it is essentially a massive plastic tank with a one-way release valve to allow oxygen to escape but not enter. I do plan on writing a post about how Anaerobic and Carbonic Maceration work and how they differ when I have enough time, as I know we have had a ton of anaerobic coffees since the start of this. This all results in this stunning coffee grown at 1600 MASL in the beautiful mountainous region shown above. Upon grinding this coffee I got a little concerned… It smelled woodsy and smoky. Two aromas I would never look for in a coffee. That aroma stayed through the entire brewing process. Once the brew finished, I quickly discarded the filter and grabbed the carafe to smell, and to my pleasant surprise those fragrances disappeared! It turned in to a sweet, cinnamon forward cup. In the cup I tasted cinnamon, toffee, plum, spearmint, and a sort of salted caramel taste combined with bitter liqueur (Campari anyone?) that I could not quite articulate. I brewed this coffee using a 16:1 ratio and a pretty standard starting grind setting. After the bloom, I pulsed this coffee three times from 35-50 s, 65-80 s, and 95-110 s. My drop time was 2:30. I look forward to experimenting with this one to see what other flavors I can get out of it. 

2. Ethiopia Tabe Burka
I realized when selecting a roaster this month that I haven\’t bought a single Natural Ethiopia for the Coffee Club yet. For as many people that specified how much they love Natural Ethiopians and/or stated a specific Natural Ethiopia they remember enjoying, it is quite the oversight on my part! I typically am careful when selecting these coffees as many can come off as one-dimensional or aggressively fermenty. The reason so many coffees in Ethiopia are sun-dried (natural) instead of Washed is due to lack of access to clean water. This combined with low wages paid to the hardworking members of processing mills can lead to uncontrolled fermentation times and less attention to detail. However, a great Natural Ethiopia can erase your worries, and trap you in the world of specialty coffee. This coffee is from the Guji region of Uraga, and consists of cherries picked only in close proximity to the Tabe Burka washing station. This coffee will remind us of the ancient tradition that is Ethiopian Coffee. Upon my first sip of this coffee, a wave of relief rushed over me. The coffee had zero aspects of an over-fermented natural. What I taste instead is a brown sugar and sweet tart party in my mouth. While not something I would describe as complex, it is clean and crisp. The fruit notes are well articulated and last throughout the entire tasting experience. I brewed this coffee with a 16:1 ratio and a coarser grind setting. My drop time was 2:45 for a pretty small brew (12 gram dose). I would say 2:45 is a good drop time if you are making a larger brew, but for my cup I think it was a tad over extracted. This one is a crown pleaser, please share with whoever you can (from 6 feet away of course).
3. El Salvador Himalaya 
The Barn has been working with the Himalaya farm for some years now, and I have always seemed to let them slip through my fingers. Although I have not tried anything yet, I still associate this farm with various micro-lots, rare varietals, and experimental processing. This farm was started in 1880 and remains in the same family. Mauricio Salaverria comes from generations of coffee growers, and possesses the collective knowledge of those before him to grow excellent coffee. This specific coffee is a Natural Maragogype. Like I first did, I am sure you are now saying \”what the f$&% is a maragogype\”. It is a varietal that was mutated and produced first in Brazil, and is used to create a lot of interesting new hybrid varietals. The pure Maragogype is a massive sea-shell sounding bean. So before you ask, grind it finer than usual. The vision Mauricio holds for the farm is inspiring. Currently Himalaya covers 24 hectares and grows varietals like SL28, SL34, Maracaturra, Gesha. With the level of control over the processing, this natural coffee will show clean, exotic flavors. Right when my grinder started breaking these clunkers down, my kitchen filled with aromas of strawberry, spices, and tropical fruits. In the cup I taste ripe strawberry, lychee, caramel, and an overall 10/10 sweetness. Like stated above, I ground this a couple clicks finer than usual. I still poured my normal routine of three pulses at 35 second intervals and it dropped out at 2:40. I used a 16.5:1 ratio but am interested to see how it might changed if I use even more water. Say, a 17:1 ratio. Will it bring out more fruit? Or will it flatten the flavors out. Please try and tell me!

October Coffee: Kaffa – Oslo

October is the best for a couple reasons: the trees turn and become a form of earth art vibrant with an autumn palette, the month ends with the most important holiday, and last but not least, it is prime coffee sipping weather. This month we are drinking coffees from Kaffa from Oslo, Norway. I am not sure how many of you are familiar with Kaffa, as they were not a common roaster in the shop and hardly anyone in the United States sells them. They are a large roaster and, unlike the other Nordic roasters we enjoy, they use an older roaster called a Probat. Some argue that the roaster the others use, called a Loring, produces cleaner coffees with greater consistency. But roasters like Kaffa that do not use this newer, more techy/advanced roaster make me question that argument because their coffees are always clean and pop with flavor. Regardless, lets get in to the offerings!

Probat roaster at Kaffa

1. Indonesia Waerebo Apen
I am so excited about this coffee! I have not had a great coffee with these clean flavors in years. To preface with a quick geography lesson: the Pacific Rim include but are not limited to Indonesia, Sulawesi, Sumatra, and Papua New Guinea. While I was with Sump Coffee we purchased coffee from Sulawesi for a couple years and they were fantastic. Recently, for some reason the coffees from Sulawesi dropped in quality and/or production so I wasn\’t able to find them anywhere. Furthermore, I\’ve been only able to find one or two good coffees from Sumatra and Papua New Guinea. Hence why this Indonesia coffee is basically the reason we are drinking Kaffa this month. The Waerebo Apen is a honey-processed yellow bourbon coffee from the Waerebo region, where one of the oldest communities in Indonesia is located. The coffee produced here helps the community run sustainable agriculture and helps coffee producers with innovation and growing micro-lots in the varying climates of this region. The flavors in this coffee are intoxicating. It is the most complex coffee I have had in a long time, with flavors of dried fruit, sour candy, chocolate, and honeycrisp apple. I brewed this coffee with a 16:1 ratio, and ground it at my normal starting point for a Colombian or Ecuadorian coffee. I used three pulses spaces 10 seconds apart, finishing my last pour at 1:50. My final brew time was 2:50. 
2. Ethiopia Yirgacheffe Chelbesa
The Ethiopian coffee season is coming to an end soon. In the coming weeks, we will see less and less fresh crop Ethiopia coming in and most Ethiopians remaining will be late-season or leftover. This delightful washed Ethiopian is from the Negusse Debela processing station, which receives coffees grown in \”semi-forest\” conditions. While we do know the main varietals grown in this region and processed at this washing station are Dega and Wolisho, we will never know for sure if that\’s it as transparency in Ethiopia is difficult. However, these natural varieties produce wild flavors not known elsewhere in the world…one of the reasons we will always love Ethiopian coffees. In this coffee I tasted explosive citrus and stone fruits. Bright tropicals hit right away, then turn to juicy peach and florals, with a spiced orange tea aftertaste. I brewed this with a 15.5:1 ratio and a coarse grind setting to achieve a faster brew. Personally, I used a smaller dose so I went for a 2:20 brew time with two pulses separated by 10 seconds, finishing my pour at 1:30. If you are making a larger batch, I would just recommend going much coarser than usual and adjusting your pour or grind setting to get this to taste better. If it tastes weak, you probably have gone too coarse or poured too fast. 
3. Uganda Mbale
For years, Uganda has primarily produced a lot of low quality green, which kept income and quality low.  This is changing. I chose this coffee because I think specialty coffee development in Uganda is extremely important to support their economic efforts. While most of the current coffees from Uganda are naturals, such as this one, I look forward to how the processing progresses in the years and would warmly welcome another country to my \”favorite origins\” list. This month\’s offering specifically is a natural semi-anaerobic coffee. While exciting on it\’s own, that is not even the best part. The varietals are SL28, SL34, and SL14, which are all typically Kenyan varietals. This lot comes from the Sironko processing yard located in the Mbale area in Eastern Uganda. In this coffee I tasted a hit of funk right away, but it is fleeting. The cup quickly transforms in to a delicate, yet sweet cup with a long sticky sweet aftertaste. I tasted fermented blueberry, graham crackers, lavender, with a coating yet silky body. I brewed this one with a 16:1 ratio and ground it a couple clicks finer than my usual starting point to give me a 3:00 brew time. I would do 3-4 pulses to achieve this brew time. 
Thank you again for allowing me to bring wonderful coffee in to your home and allowing me to continue supporting these roasters working so hard to create a better world for coffee to thrive in. 

September Coffee: Vivid Congo Hutwe and Other Friends

 VIVID AROMAS AND TASTE! 

Vivid for me is basically a \”Missed Connections\” success story. They sent me samples at the beginning of 2020 in an attempt to be a part of the retail coffee rotation at the Llama. I didn\’t even know they were sent to me until a fellow Barista texted me to ask if they could take them home as they needed coffee and I nearly said yes, as I was stressed about something else at the time, but my coffee instincts took over as I made sure to try every coffee sent to me to be polite. The coffees were outstanding, which can be rare for a random sample pack showing up. I immediately contacted the roaster/owner, Ian Bailey. We had a couple great runs with Vivid at the shop and then boom… Covid hits. Now, because of a couple of random occurrences taking place I am able to share the delicious coffees with the Coffee Club. 

1. Congo Hutwe

    Typically when the roaster describes a coffee as \”lights out\” that means I buy. This exquisite representation of the years of build-up and booming quality standards in Congo is by all means \”lights out\”. The Hutwe washing station brings together cherries from many smallholder farmers ranging from 1500-1800 masl and consists of mostly Bourbon. Another variety known as Rumangabo is grown locally and is suspected to be mixed in with the Bourbon cherries. The Hutwe station is located near the eastern border of Congo, northwest of Burundi/Rwanda and just west of Uganda. The growing conditions here are great for Arabica with fertile volcanic soil, high altitude, and rainfall. The region however is extremely impoverished and for many years has lacked proper infrastructure for Coffee Production. This coffee is delicate. \”Tea-like\” as they say. I tasted notes of jasmine, caramel, and sour candy. I have a hunch it will make for a great espresso. I brewed this coffee on my v60 with a 15.5:1 coffee-to-water ratio, and ground it finer than typical African coffees because of the lower elevation. It was actually two clicks finer than the Kenyan coffee last month from Kafferaven. I poured two pulses following the bloom from 30-60 s, and then 75-105 s. The brew time ended up being 2:20. Next time I am probably going to pour wider circles to bring the fines down and extend the brew time to see if I can get more out of it. 

2. Colombia Albeiro Ramirez – Chiroso

    This coffee interested me because it is essentially a single-variety test of a new variety to me. The varietal is called Chiroso, which exists as a natural mutation to the more mainstream Caturra varietal. Producers in the Antioquia region discovered the cherries were different and that the resulting coffee tasted outstanding. The producer of this coffee, Albeiro Ramirez, has been experimenting with Chiroso and made sure to provide a sample to Vivid. Albeiro grows this coffee high up in the mountains bordering Medellin at 1900-2100 masl. This coffee has excellent sweetness with notes of vanilla, brown sugar, grapefruit, and a suggestion of peach. I brewed this coffee with a 16.5:1 ratio and used my longer brew time schedule. I ground it a couple clicks coarser, and poured four pulses. Each pulse was spaced 30 seconds apart following my 35 s bloom, so I poured each increment at 35 s, 65 s, 95 s, and 125 s. The final brew time was 2:50. 

3. Costa Rica Hacienda La Minita – Anaerobic Villa Sarchi

    When I asked Ian about the current lineup, knowing the Congo was in stock, he told me that he just received six Costa Rican microlots with all different varietals and processing methods to which I replied, \”Holy Shit.\”. I really contemplated switching up the entire format this month and repackaging all six of them in smaller quantities for people to try but honestly that sounded like an awful laborious task. So instead, I chose the most unique one. This is a washed anaerobic coffee from Tarrazu, grown on the flagship farm for La Minita. La Minita is actually a global coffee importer, and this farm in Costa Rica is a place where they can experiment with varietals and processing. The anaerobic part will speak for itself in this unique coffee, but the Villa Sarchi varietal is one of my absolute favorite varietals because of it\’s clean, crisp flavor profile. This is an intensely sweet and fruity cup, reminiscent of the best juice ever (mango nectar; don\’t fight me). I also detected a slight earthy tone in the cup but it could be the way I brewed it. This coffee is clean yet a thick, heavy body coats the palate. I brewed this coffee with a 16:1 ratio and I used a finer grind setting than a typical starting point. Finer than the Congo listed above by about two clicks on my Wilfa grinder. I poured three pulses following the bloom from 35-60 s, 70-95 s, and 105-130 s. The final brew time was 2:40. 

Thank you for exploring the world of coffee with me. Until next month,

-Dylan 

How to: Campsite Coffee and Freezing Surplus Beans

More than acceptable camping kettle

With Labor Day coming up, I know a lot of you may be camping. So I figured now was as good of time as ever to go over how I prefer to make coffee in the great outdoors. Just because you are away from electricity/your tools to control independent variables in brewing does not mean you must succumb to instant coffee! 
My method is semi-derived from April Coffee Roaster\’s Aeropress Method but with some modifications I preferred, better for brewing two cups for yourself and a camping partner while enjoying the brisk morning air next to the crackle of a fire. I included a photo of the kettle I use to show that I recommend NOT buying a nice stainless steel kettle to make coffee on an open fire. It is going to get covered with ash and soot, and the handle most likely melted if it has any plastic on it. This kettle was $5 from a thrift store.
  1. Give yourself at least a liter of purified water, or at least water that does not obviously smell like sulfur or having a greenish tint from the nearby swamp. 
  2. Bring water to a rolling boil for at least one minute to kill any bacteria. 
  3. Dose 25 grams of coffee in to your hand grinder. On a Porlex grinder I used the 12 setting (12 clicks from all the way closed)
  4. Rinse Aeropress with paper filter with hot water.
  5. Dose your coffee, pour in 140 grams of water, and then stir for 10 seconds. The timer should read about 20 seconds by now – quickly insert the plunger at a slight angle, and then in a small motion push the plunger back up-right. This allows the vacuum in the Aeropress to be created while losing minimal liquid from the brewer. 
  6. At 50 seconds, remove the plunger and stir for 20 seconds. Replace plunger using same method. 
  7. After 20 seconds of resting (time should read 1:30), begin pressing down on plunger for a total of 20 seconds at constant pressure until you hear the hissing sound. This means all available brewing liquid has been expunged. 
  8. Divide the \”concentrate\” between both cups. Each cup should have 55-60 grams of concentrate Aeropress coffee in it. 
  9. Dilute each cup with 120 grams of water. You can use hot or cold water for this dilution. Alternatively you can add 120 grams of ice instead of water to make a flash-chilled ice coffee. 

Next, I wanted to give a brief overview on the idea of freezing coffee beans as requested from a few members. For the first few years of my coffee career this was a huge no-no. I never really understood the science behind it but I was an amateur and trusted the \”professionals\”. Now I believe it is an extremely helpful tool to store coffee beans that I am excited about trying but that I will not be able to get to because of a surplus of open bags at the moment. 
First rule, never freeze a bag of already opened coffee. The vent on any bag is one-way, meaning it lets air/gases escape but does not let anything in. Once the bag is opened, you are allowing outside oxygen to mix with the oils that naturally occur from roasting. Once this is frozen and unfrozen, the humidity from the air will attack the beans by dulling the flavors and allow other food in the freezer to flavor the coffee beans. No raw chicken flavored coffee please. 
Next, do not re-freeze coffee ever. This has to do with the bean\’s temperature range rapidly fluctuating too often and can change the coffee\’s acidic compounds. 
I personally seal the actual bag of coffee inside another sealed plastic bag for extra protection just in case the bag is torn or a poor air-vent design. If you do or do not do this, it is important to freeze and un-freeze the coffee the same way. If you do double seal, take the entire double-sealed coffee bag out of freezer and let it thaw for at least 12 hours before opening. Coffee beans take a long time to change temperature and will brew completely wonky if still cold. 
I hope all of this material is helpful and do not hesitate to reach out with any questions or possible holes in my descriptions.
– Dylan